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Freedom: Personal Liberty: World:
A Most Unlikely Freedom Haven
by David MacGregor
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"Government is actually the worst failure of civilized man. There
has never been a really good one, and even those that are most
tolerable are arbitrary, cruel, grasping, and unintelligent".
-- H. L. Mencken
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How would you feel about living in a place where you weren't
compelled to wear seat belts or cycle helmets; where you could
just set up "shop" on the pavement to sell your wares, without a
license; where you could walk around in relative peace and
safety; where jaywalking is encouraged, and the traffic seems to
work in the absence of traffic cops and enforced speed limits;
where you can eat a substantial meal for a couple of dollars;
where you are not hassled when entering the country; where
entrepreneurship abounds; where the gap between rich and poor
doesn't breed envy, but aspiration; where smoking isn't a sin;
where every modern convenience exists; where policemen are hard
to find; where opportunity is everywhere; and where income tax
is virtually non-existent?
I'm talking about China—where I have just made my third trip
this year.
Now, I'm not saying it's necessarily a freedom haven for those
already here—although it certainly seems freer in many respects
than what we are used to "at home"—but I am saying that for a
freedom seeker, someone who doesn't mind living in different
places, it offers some unique and tempting benefits.
My first visit to China was in May this year. I can recall, on
the plane from Singapore, wondering what level of bureaucratic
intimidation awaited me at Beijing's Capital Airport. Well, I was
in for a shock. Instead of a typical "shakedown," as in the good
ole' US of A, I was politely received with no inspections, no
body searches, no snide comments asking "what are you doing
here?", and no fingerprints or ID photo taking required!
For some reason, my expectation when arriving at the world's
largest bastion of "Communism", was to be given the third degree.
But it never happened.
My next shock was in the modernity of the city. Broad clean
roads with loads of traffic. Driving habits a little on the crazy
side. Everywhere clean and tidy, with lots of greenery. A trip to
a department store quickly caused me to reevaluate my
prejudgement of visiting a "developing" country—as its wares
easily equalled the best the retail world has to offer—in both
range and presentation.
Perhaps the hardest thing to fathom is how such a vast number of
people can apparently live alongside each other in relative peace
and harmony. Everywhere, people walking, talking, eating—even dancing.
There's no doubt the Chinese love to eat—usually in quite large
groups. And walking down a typical side street, one is confronted
by the reality that almost every third or fourth shop is in fact
an eating establishment of some sort. Some are big and brassy—and very red. Others only have two or three tables—and are
obviously a one-man shop. But in each case, people were eating,
drinking, talking, laughing or gambling. There was a lot of
shouting and laughing going on—related to some sort of beer
drinking game.
Of course, Beijing offers a plethora of wonderful, historical
tourist attractions, like the Great Wall and Temple of Heaven.
And I did all these and more. But what most impressed me was the
tangible sense of optimism, entrepreneurship and a bustling "get
up and go"—which clearly reinforces the idea of China being an
economic powerhouse about to take on the whole world.
Unlike the other big nations, we're all familiar with, there is
no recent history of aggression or of attacking other countries—rather a determined sense of the importance of trade and business
as a means of achieving peaceful and prosperous ends.
The Chinese capacity for business and entrepreneurship is
legendary and daunting and bodes ill for the many countries now
sinking under a mire of democratically imposed, ill thought-out,
socialist, dead-weight legislation.
And how is this? After all, China is the land of Mao, the land
of socialism. China is a one-party state, an international
pariah by some "democratic" standards. How can such a country
rise above and beyond its own socialist slogans to actually
become a capitalist giant in the making? And if there is any
truth to the saying that the presence of advertising is the
"calling card" of capitalism, then China knows how to advertise!
The Chinese have a refreshing attitude toward money—not sullied
by religious talk of rich men finding it difficult to pass
through the eye of a needle. Not bothered about guilt as a way
of life. Certainly not bothered about the gap between the rich
and poor—preferring to see it as it really is, a fluid
situation where people are continually moving between states,
and given every incentive to rise higher. Not for China the
minimum wage, or the mumbling of socialist nay sayers.
My next two forays into China were to the city of Chongqing,
where I am as I write this. This bustling city is in south-west
China, a major industrial centre adjacent to the Sichuan
province and lying on the merging waters of the Yangtze and
Jialing rivers.
Chongqing is famous for its hot and spicy food—in particular,
the Chongqing Hot Pot. The main downside is the heavy pollution,
which often greys out the entire city and can irritate the
throat. I was assured that plans are in place to reduce this
atmospheric blight, but I imagine it will take time. However, it
seems to have absolutely no effect on the locals, who appear
intensely proud of their city and twin rivers.
Whatever is in the air may explain the almost anarchic driving
habits of the locals. There appear to be no real road rules,
apart from driving on the right - most of the time. A drive in
any taxi quickly disabuses you of the notion of a heavily-policed
society. I could see no police anywhere nor any apparent sense
of a speed limit. People and cars mingle freely on the roads,
negotiating each other with considerable skill, coupled with
liberal use of the car horn. But watch out for those covered
moped taxis that dart to and fro at night without any lights!
You can eat here in a flash restaurant (6 people), for about 450
RMB, which is around U$54. But if you're happy with something
simpler, like spicy noodles with chicken in a small cafe, then
you can easily eat for 3-5 RMB, or around 30 - 50 cents USD. A
typical night out for two, in a proper restaurant, usually comes
in at under 100 RMB.
The modern stores are full of everything a decadent, spoiled
westerner could ever want and clothing is a particular bargain.
But to put this in perspective, you can pay up to 25 RMB for a
cup of coffee in a fashionable cafe while the guy outside is
cleaning the streets for 400 RMB per month.
But it's at night time that the real flavour of Chinese life
becomes apparent. They don't just go home, lock the doors, switch
on the TV and retire for the night. No, the night is alive with
tens of thousands of people milling around the streets. Many just
walking. Some sitting talking or playing games. Others are
doing exercises, or even ballroom dancing. And everywhere people
are eating. So much eating and so little obesity. There must be
some important dietary secret hidden here!
Yes, of course you can still pig-out on McDonalds, KFC or Pizza
Hut if you want, as they are all here. And maybe a younger
generation of Chinese might be "invaded and enslaved" by western
eating habits. But for most part, the apparently enthusiastic
and continuous eating seems to have no impact on the nation's
collective girth.
Yesterday was interesting. In the space of one street and half an
hour, I witnessed the following:
A man with performing monkeys, putting on a spontaneous street
show; a body-pumping demonstration of exercise to music being
lead by a couple of attractive young women, with members of the
public joining in; a man writing a very long scroll in Chinese on
the pavement and attracting donations for some reason; people
selling various pets: turtles, kittens, puppies, birds;
advertising leaflets being handed out with abandon; shoe shine
vendors plying their services; the young and hip mixed with their
poor country cousins; spontaneous gambling by the roadside;
mobile phones everywhere; modern Chinese music blasting out of
shops; and not a policeman or obvious authority figure in sight.
I was able to have an interesting "political" conversation over
dinner, with the help of one of the guests who could speak
English. I moved the discussion on to politics and communism. I
asked what they thought of it all. There was a surprising sense
of "Oh, that? We don't believe it." One gentleman I was talking
to was a newspaper columnist and gave me a run down on why the
free market was China's future. He was a no-holds-barred
capitalist. Then there was the "odd" comment, when touching on
international affairs, that Mao Zedong was like Bin Laden. I
thought about that for a while, but couldn't decide if this was
a favourable or unfavourable comparison. I have heard that same
comment more than once since being here.
I can't speak for the millions of people who have to live in
China, or for those who may feel constrained by their political
beliefs. But I can say China proves something—that economics
trumps politics—and will be proven to do so, here in this so-
called communist nation.
I also know that for a foreigner, who wants a place to live and
"disappear," China would be ideal. Plenty of opportunities,
great food, cheap living, no shortage of all modern conveniences, provided
you don't mind being looked at by the locals! Although Beijing
is becoming more cosmopolitan (though not as much as Shanghai),
Chongqing is decidedly short on foreigners, creating a natural
curiosity amongst the locals, which often involves prolonged
"staring". Like a couple of days ago, while eating in a roadside
cafe, where I had to eat under the watchful gaze of the smiling,
proprietor/chef!
A freedom seeker will find much to enjoy in China - not least
the sense of being "left alone" - laissez faire in real time. And
there is perhaps only one barrier, the length of your allowed
stay—which (for most countries) appears to be one month.
However, doing business allows for multiple re-entries, and as a
last resort, you could always marry one of the locals!
My general impression of China is that it is literally mind-
boggling. What is going on here is unprecedented in human history—an industrial transformation at the speed of light. Not for the
Chinese the complaints against foreign investment. No, they chew
it up as fast as it arrives. The more the better. No "PC"
nonsense here as even the official party line is only given lip
service to. The Chinese have much more important things to do -
like making money!
China is undoubtedly on the road to global economic dominance.
Just today I read, in the UK's Independent, how the last
remaining British volume car maker, MG Rover, has been bailed
out with one billion GBP in Chinese cash. Yes, they're buying
a 70% stake in that once-famous company. It's a sign of things to
come.
And is there any truth to the urban legend that China, along with
Japan, could abandon the USD as their reserve currency, and peg
their respective currencies to gold in a bold pan-Asian move to
monetary independence? I think China has some surprises in store.
Freedom seekers everywhere need to take off any rose-tinted
glasses that may blind them to a deteriorating domestic situation
or to the advantages of new environments and see the emerging
world anew. For I believe we are witnessing a huge historical
power-shift that is already well underway. And being on the right
side of an opening crevice is obviously the sensible place to be.
—(12/02/04)
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